Shakespeare wasn’t exactly known for his field research. Since he never came out this way, it’s a pretty well acknowledged fact that Verona’s popular “House of Juliet” is just a pretty little house from the 13th Century with a balcony large enough to believably play a scene from and a courtyard to sneak around and hide in. That all being said, the place has a tremendous draw- especially for lovers and giggling Chinese school girls. So- when you go, you’re not really going to see the house of Juliet, you’re going to see that place that you’ve seen on travel shows and that all those other people have gone to. It’s a great little post-modern vortex and a cool photo-op all wrapped up in one- the perfect travel moment.
Anyhow, Verona is, as Lauren describes, beautiful- but also closer to everyday life than Venice. There isn’t the same veil of mystery surrounding everyday life- more the sense of a prosperous, beautiful city where people still live and work in fairly ordinary ways- which makes it more accessible but less seductive.
Saw two great theatre spaces today left over from ancient Rome- the Arena and the Roman Theatre. Both are still in sporadic use- though, sadly, not in mid-February. Always fun to look at a space like that and imagine someone 2000 years ago trying to figure out if Plautus’ latest is going to fill up the stone benches enough to make it’s budget.
Also saw three fresco-filled churches today- though they are blending a bit in my mind. San Zeno, San Anastasia and San somethin else. Stunning and rich with history, they date from as early as the 11th century and, though in a state of constant partial renovation, still spectacular.
Well, time for dinner. We’re hungry enough to eat a horse- thank god it’s on the menu!
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