Frari (from the word Frati, meaning brothers) was the major landmark in our neighborhood. We were continually orienting ourselves by the enormous Gothic church- walking towards it, around it and behind it. We could see the bell tower from our window and hear the bells throughout the day. Entering the cavernous space, I was drawn down the center aisle, past the neo-classical pyramid (originally designed by Canova as a tribute to Titian, later constructed by Canova’s students as his tomb) through the rood screen and the intricately carved stalls of the monk’s choir and towards Titian’s radiant painting Assumption of the Virgin. Framed by stained glass windows, the painting glows in shades of red and gold. As the afternoon sun gradually moved lower in the sky, the light through the windows continually changed the appearance of the painting- alternately revealing and concealing figures and details in the painting. The effect was paralyzingly beautiful, and I found myself standing in front of it watching it blaze with life still illuminated by the artist’s passion after almost 500 years.
There are other two other significant works of art in Frari- Donatello’s sculpture John the Baptist and Bellini’s painting Madonna Entombed with Saints. Both are great examples of the transition from the Gothic era’s flat symbolism to the humanism and perspective of the Renaissance. Seeing works from this era still hanging in their original context, exactly as envisioned by the artists gave me an appreciation for them that I have never gotten from even the best museums I’ve been to. Instead of racing through one track-lit sterile gallery after another, giving maybe 3o seconds to each painting, I could stand in one place, transfixed by a masterpiece as the cold afternoon outside turned to night.
The best way to view the pictures (in my opinion) is to click on the first one which opens a larger view, then click Next in that new window. This way you can also read the captions.
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